Lebanese designer Elie Saab threw his attention to capes for his autumn haute couture lineup in Paris on Wednesday, offering them in various forms that added volume to silhouettes. The couturier, who is a favorite of European royals (most recently designing what was arguably the most beautiful wedding dress of last year for Stephanie, Hereditary Grand Duchess of Luxembourg), drew inspiration from an “Imperial Mexico” theme to create a dreamy affair of fluid fabrics and theatrical embellishments.
Embroidery was a significant focus of the collection, which featured a variety of floral motifs that appeared as subtle cascades on long gowns or overtly in large appliques. For example, a black number donned with a hooded cape evoked an otherworldly warrior spirit. At the same time, the white embroidered appliqués on a princess gown were almost tattoo-like in their simplicity.
The silhouettes were generally romantic and feminine, with a strong sense of movement created using sheer, translucent materials like lace, silk, and organza that seemed to float over models’ bodies. Structured shoulders lent strength to gowns, particularly those in fuchsia, pink, or chartreuse. But it was the capes that stood out. The couturier layered short ones over some dresses while draped long ones added drama to other pieces. Some were adorned with feathers or even crystal cage masks, adding mystery and protection to the gowns.
Saab’s adoring clientele of A-list actresses and women with packed social calendars will undoubtedly have plenty of occasions to wear his showstopping gowns. And it is a fact that is not likely to change any time soon.
As the haute couture week in Paris continues, several other Arab designers also took to the runways, with Zuhair Murad and Sara Chraibi presenting their latest creations alongside Mohammed Ashi and Georges Hobeika. All four designers have shown in Paris before, and they are among the big names that will take to the stage again next week as part of the official schedule.
The final day of Haute Couture Week begins on Sunday, with Balenciaga and Paco Rabanne among the other big names scheduled to present their collections. And, as always, there will be a smattering of shows by independents and up-and-comers. The full schedule can be viewed here.
